Vintage watches are graded by a different set of rules than modern production: original dial, original hands, honest patina, and complete box-and-papers matter more than absolute condition. The factor tables reflect that: vintage top-luxury watch-only takes a deeper hit, but vintage unworn-NOS carries a steeper premium.
Vintage references in the catalog are generally pre-1985 production, the era label follows the reference's original production period rather than an individual example's age. The 20 vintage references include the Rolex Submariner 1680, the Omega Seamaster 300 CK 2913, the Vacheron Constantin 6073, and the Patek 2526. Vintage buying accepts higher service costs, lower parts availability, and the absence of any factory warranty, in exchange for provenance, original hand-finishing techniques, and the market premium that collector demand creates. Prices for major references (vintage Submariner, early Speedmaster Pre-Professional) have crossed into ranges well above equivalent modern watches; for minor references, vintage often trades at a discount.
luxuryLemania Cal. 321 -- manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 18,000bph, 48h PR; lateral clutch, triple-hammer; same caliber used on Moonwatch NASA mission42mm1968–1988editorial
luxuryRolex Cal. 4030 -- base Zenith El Primero, modified to 28,800bph (down from 36,000bph), 50h PR, 31j; column-wheel; Rolex replaced El Primero escapement40mm1988–2000editorial
luxuryLemania Cal. 321 -- manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 18,000bph, 48h PR; lateral clutch, triple-hammer; same caliber used on Moonwatch NASA mission42mm1967–1968editorial
luxuryOmega Cal. 561 -- automatic, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 24j; bumper rotor predecessor to 562; used in pie-pan Constellation from late 1950s34mm1966–1969editorial
enthusiastJunghans Cal. J800.1 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Junghans-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Max Bill Auto and Meister Driver; clean German Bauhaus aesthetic38mm1961–presenteditorial
enthusiastJunghans Cal. J880.1 -- ETA Valjoux 7750 base, Junghans-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Max Bill Chronoscope; Bauhaus design with flyback chronograph40mm1962–presenteditorial
luxuryRolex Cal. 1556 -- in-house automatic, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 25j; used in Day-Date 1803 from 1970s; quickset date predecessor; Rolex gilt movement era36mm1957–1977editorial
enthusiastUniversal Geneve Cal. UG 66 -- manual-wind, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 17j; thin dress caliber used in the classic Genève line; no complications, single-barrel manual movement36mm1960–1985editorial
