DB28XP

De Bethune builds the DB28XP around one of the most technically refined movements in independent watchmaking, wrapped in a case that manages to be both spare and visually arresting. The blued titanium dial and spherical moon display make a strong aesthetic argument without shouting. At 43mm it wears larger than its weight suggests.

What it is

De Bethune was founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and Pierre Jacques, and it has operated as a genuine manufacture from the start, developing its own movements, alloys, and complications in-house. The DB28 family introduced De Bethune's flat-case aesthetic alongside serious mechanical credentials, and the XP designation marks the thinner, more refined evolution of that line. The DB2115v4 features a silicon balance wheel and silicon hairspring produced entirely in-house, which is unusual even among independent makers who typically source these components.

The spherical moon display, a rotating titanium ball half-blued to indicate the lunar phase, has become one of the most recognizable and technically sound implementations of that complication anywhere in horology. De Bethune recalibrates its moon phase mechanism to deviate only once every 1,112 years, which is a useful illustration of how seriously the firm treats functional accuracy alongside aesthetics.

Buying notes

The titanium case and blued components require careful handling; titanium scratches easily and the blued surfaces can be damaged by chemicals, solvents, or careless polishing. Because De Bethune produces everything in-house, service must go back to the manufacture or a certified De Bethune specialist. Independent watchmaker estimates vary widely, and a poorly performed service on the DB2115v4 can damage the silicon components that are not available through third-party suppliers.

The DB28XP is a thin watch, and buyers who handle it without care risk case damage that is difficult to match cosmetically given the proprietary alloy work. Pre-owned examples should be inspected for dial condition closely, as the blued titanium is susceptible to color shift under UV exposure over long periods.

Market read

New DB28XP examples trade in the $60,000 to $80,000 range depending on configuration, with limited availability through De Bethune's small authorized dealer network. Pre-owned prices have held reasonably well because the brand's production volumes are low and collector demand from the independent watch community is consistent. This is not a watch that appreciates on speculation, but it does not collapse at resale the way some independent pieces do when the hype fades.

Condition and provenance matter considerably at this price point.

Service expectations

The DB28XP runs on the DB2115v4 hand-wound caliber, which should be serviced approximately every five to seven years. Service must be performed by De Bethune directly or by an authorized service center with access to proprietary parts, particularly the in-house silicon balance and hairspring assembly.