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The DB28 Kind of Blue is the reference that defines what De Bethune does better than almost anyone: the blued titanium dial is not a coating or PVD treatment but actual thermally blued titanium, and the spherical moon phase at 10 o'clock is a genuine engineering achievement calibrated to deviate one day in 122 years. This is haute horlogerie for the technically curious collector, not for the brand-badge buyer.
De Bethune was founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta with a mandate to push watchmaking technique beyond the standard industry palette. The DB28 family is the core of their sport-adjacent offering: 42.6mm, titanium and white gold case, and the in-house DB2009 manual-wind calibre with a six-day power reserve. The Kind of Blue designation applies across DB28 references finished with the thermally blued titanium dial.
Flageollet holds multiple patents for their silicon-based escapement components and the triple-axis tourbillon appears in upper-tier DB references; the DB28KOB is De Bethune's most accessible entry into that technical vocabulary.
De Bethune produces roughly 500 watches per year across all references; secondary-market availability is structurally limited. Authenticating a DB28 requires examining the movement: the DB2009 calibre has distinctive finishing standards that counterfeits cannot replicate at cost, but buying from a reputable secondary-market dealer with movement inspection is mandatory. The manual-wind movement needs regular winding; owners who leave watches unworn for extended periods should wind before wearing rather than letting the mainspring run fully down repeatedly.
Service must go through De Bethune or their authorized network; no mainstream independent can source parts.
New DB28 Kind of Blue references have retailed in the CHF 60,000 to 80,000 range, though De Bethune pricing varies by configuration and year. Secondary-market examples in top condition with full provenance hold value well: De Bethune's technical reputation and ultra-low production volumes mean supply never swamps demand from serious collectors. The watch is not a liquid asset in the way a Patek or AP reference is, but within the independent haute horlogerie category it is one of the most consistently respected names.
Service is exclusively through De Bethune in Le Locle or their authorized service network. The DB2009 manual-wind calibre with its silicon components requires De Bethune-specific expertise and parts; no independent watchmaker outside their network should attempt an overhaul. Service interval is approximately five to seven years.
Budget accordingly: service at this tier is not inexpensive, and the low production volume means scheduling can require patience.
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The "Kind of Blue" dial is blued by controlled titanium oxidation and its color depth is unreproducible; any DB28 KOB with a flat uniform blue has a non-genuine dial.
| Area | What to check | What is correct | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| dial | Controlled titanium oxidation blue | Blue varies in depth across the dial surface; unreproducible gradient consistent with controlled oxidation | Flat uniform blue; painted or enamel dial substitution, not genuine titanium oxidation |
| dial | Titanium hemispherical moon disc | Mirror-polished titanium hemispherical moon disc showing three-dimensional depth | Flat grey or silver moon disc substitute; non-genuine moon display |
| movement | DB2019 in-house movement | De Bethune DB2019 hand-wound movement with titanium balance visible through caseback | Non-De Bethune movement architecture; non-genuine movement swap |
