Aluminum-bezel watches
References in the Grail Atlas catalog with this bezel material above the case.
Aluminum bezel inserts are the original — and on vintage references, the only — dive-watch bezel material. The Rolex Submariner 5513, the Tudor 7928, and every diver from the 1960s-1990s used anodized aluminum bezels that develop "ghost" fade through sun exposure over decades. The aged-aluminum aesthetic is so collected that modern brands now intentionally re-create it: the Tudor Black Bay's red-bezel aluminum, the Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage's aged-lume bezel, and the Longines Legend Diver bezel.
What to look for
The Tudor Black Bay 58 (M79030N), Tudor Pelagos LHD, and Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage are the modern aluminum-bezel references. The colour will fade over years — buyers who care about appearance must accept this or buy ceramic. Aluminum bezels also scratch more visibly than ceramic; deep scratches are usually repaired by replacing the entire insert (which most authorized services will do for $100-$300 depending on brand). Vintage Submariner 5513 bezel inserts trade as collectible objects in their own right — original "ghost" or "tropical" inserts can cost $1,000+ depending on condition and reference.
