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De Bethune

DB28 Tourbillon

Ref. DB28T
2012–present · 43mm · caliber De Bethune DB2019v2 (hand-wound, flying tourbillon, silicon/platinum balance, 6-day power reserve)

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In-house manufacture caliber · caliber De Bethune DB2019v2 (hand-wound, flying tourbillon, silicon/platinum balance, 6-day power reserve) · 144h power reserve (6 days)
Large case: suits wrists 7 in+ (18 cm+)
43 mm case. A bold, statement-size wear. Best suited to larger wrists where the case sits flush.

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Authentication

The flying tourbillon must have no visible upper bearing or bridge above the cage; any tourbillon with a visible upper support is a different architecture.

Known issues in the market
  • The silicon/platinum inertia weights are De Bethune's thermal compensation system; their presence is verifiable only under magnification by a specialist.
AreaWhat to checkWhat is correctRed flag
movementFlying tourbillon architectureTourbillon cage with no visible upper bearing or bridge; appears to float above the movementVisible upper bearing or cage support; different tourbillon architecture, not a flying tourbillon
movementTourbillon rotation rateCage completes exactly one rotation per 60 secondsRotation rate deviating from 60 seconds; regulation issue
casebackDB28T serial and documentationMatching serial number and original De Bethune certificateMissing or non-matching documentation; requires expert authentication
Common legitimate replacements
  • No common replacements; De Bethune parts are proprietary.
Expert resources: De Bethune directly; specialist independent watch authenticators.

Authentication guide

Last reviewed June 2026

The DB28 Tourbillon combines the DB28 architecture with a flying tourbillon and spherical moonphase. Caliber DB2019v2 in titanium or white gold at 43mm. One of the most mechanically complex references in the De Bethune lineup.

Known reproduction risks

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LOW

No known replica. The combination of flying tourbillon, silicon escapement, and spherical moonphase cannot be assembled outside De Bethune.

  • Any bridge above the tourbillon cage means this is not a flying tourbillon or not a De Bethune
  • Flat moonphase disc disqualifies the moonphase as original

With a 2012 introduction date, earlier DB28T examples are over a decade old; service history documentation is critical.

Dial variants by era

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EraDescriptionIdentifiers
2012 to presentBlue, silver, or black dial with Roman numerals. Flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock. Spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock. Power reserve indicator. Case in titanium or white gold.
  • Flying tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock without a bridge above it
  • Three-dimensional spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock
  • DB28T designation on caseback and documentation
  • Silicon/platinum balance components within the tourbillon cage
  • 43mm titanium or white gold case

Service part flags

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Flying tourbillon cage

Original: The De Bethune flying tourbillon has no upper bridge; the cage appears to float above the dial. The cage is typically in titanium and contains the silicon balance wheel and spring.

Replacement tells
  • Any bridge structure above the tourbillon cage
  • Tourbillon cage in non-titanium material without documented specification
  • Balance wheel within the cage without the bi-metallic silicon/platinum construction
Spherical moonphase

Original: Identical specification to the DB28XP moonphase: three-dimensional sphere, not a flat disc.

Replacement tells
  • Flat moonphase disc indicating a non-original or serviced-incorrectly moonphase

Case back markings

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2012 to present
  • DB28T designation
  • Individual serial number
  • Ti or 750WG material designation
  • De Bethune name
  • 30m water resistance

Movement tells

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  • The flying tourbillon should complete one rotation per minute and the cage should appear to float without visible mechanical support from the dial side.
  • Service on the tourbillon caliber requires De Bethune factory or authorized technician only; the silicon balance and cage components are not serviceable by general watchmakers.
  • Request timing machine results showing the tourbillon's regulation; a properly serviced DB28T should perform within ±5 seconds per day on a timing machine.
Sources: De Bethune official.

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