Name: De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue DB28KOB
Brand: De Bethune
SKU: DB28KOB

The DB28 Kind of Blue is the reference that defines what De Bethune does better than almost anyone: the blued titanium dial is not a coating or PVD treatment but actual thermally blued titanium, and the spherical moon phase at 10 o'clock is a genuine engineering achievement calibrated to deviate one day in 122 years. This is haute horlogerie for the technically curious collector, not for the brand-badge buyer.

What it is

De Bethune was founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta with a mandate to push watchmaking technique beyond the standard industry palette. The DB28 family is the core of their sport-adjacent offering: 42.6mm, titanium and white gold case, and the in-house DB2009 manual-wind calibre with a six-day power reserve. The Kind of Blue designation applies across DB28 references finished with the thermally blued titanium dial.

Flageollet holds multiple patents for their silicon-based escapement components and the triple-axis tourbillon appears in upper-tier DB references; the DB28KOB is De Bethune's most accessible entry into that technical vocabulary.

Buying notes

De Bethune produces roughly 500 watches per year across all references; secondary-market availability is structurally limited. Authenticating a DB28 requires examining the movement: the DB2009 calibre has distinctive finishing standards that counterfeits cannot replicate at cost, but buying from a reputable secondary-market dealer with movement inspection is mandatory. The manual-wind movement needs regular winding; owners who leave watches unworn for extended periods should wind before wearing rather than letting the mainspring run fully down repeatedly.

Service must go through De Bethune or their authorized network; no mainstream independent can source parts.

Market read

New DB28 Kind of Blue references have retailed in the CHF 60,000 to 80,000 range, though De Bethune pricing varies by configuration and year. Secondary-market examples in top condition with full provenance hold value well: De Bethune's technical reputation and ultra-low production volumes mean supply never swamps demand from serious collectors. The watch is not a liquid asset in the way a Patek or AP reference is, but within the independent haute horlogerie category it is one of the most consistently respected names.

Service expectations

Service is exclusively through De Bethune in Le Locle or their authorized service network. The DB2009 manual-wind calibre with its silicon components requires De Bethune-specific expertise and parts; no independent watchmaker outside their network should attempt an overhaul. Service interval is approximately five to seven years.

Budget accordingly: service at this tier is not inexpensive, and the low production volume means scheduling can require patience.

Editorial copy is AI-drafted from primary sources and reviewed by Grail Atlas before publication. Where the text is uncertain about a fact, it says so. Email corrections@grailatlas.com if something reads wrong. Signals on this page (community, OSINT) are clearly separated from the editorial sections.

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In-house manufacture caliber · caliber De Bethune Caliber DB2019 (manual-wind, titanium balance, 6-day power reserve) · 144h power reserve (6 days)

Large case: suits wrists 7 in+ (18 cm+)

43 mm case. A bold, statement-size wear. Best suited to larger wrists where the case sits flush.

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Authentication

The "Kind of Blue" dial is blued by controlled titanium oxidation and its color depth is unreproducible; any DB28 KOB with a flat uniform blue has a non-genuine dial.

Known issues in the market

The titanium mirror-polished hemispherical moon disc must be present and show depth; flat silver or grey substitutes are non-genuine.
De Bethune produces very few pieces per year; provenance with original documentation is essential.

Area	What to check	What is correct	Red flag
dial	Controlled titanium oxidation blue	Blue varies in depth across the dial surface; unreproducible gradient consistent with controlled oxidation	Flat uniform blue; painted or enamel dial substitution, not genuine titanium oxidation
dial	Titanium hemispherical moon disc	Mirror-polished titanium hemispherical moon disc showing three-dimensional depth	Flat grey or silver moon disc substitute; non-genuine moon display
movement	DB2019 in-house movement	De Bethune DB2019 hand-wound movement with titanium balance visible through caseback	Non-De Bethune movement architecture; non-genuine movement swap

Common legitimate replacements

No common replacements; De Bethune parts are proprietary.

Expert resources: De Bethune directly; specialist independent watch authenticators with De Bethune experience.

Authentication guide

Last reviewed June 2026

The DB28 Kind of Blue derives its name from the titanium case surface heated to create a specific iridescent blue tone. The thermal treatment color is the primary authentication marker: the exact hue from controlled heating cannot be replicated by paint or coating.

Known reproduction risks

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LOW

No known replica. The thermal blue titanium surface is the single most distinctive feature: it cannot be replicated by any conventional coating or painting process because the iridescence and micro-variation of thermal oxidation are inherent to the process.

A uniform, non-iridescent blue surface is not thermal oxidation
PVD-coated cases show a harder, more reflective surface than thermal titanium

The thermal blue surface is susceptible to wear; inspect under strong raking light for polished-over areas where the oxide layer has been abraded.

Dial variants by era

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Era	Description	Identifiers
2014 to present	Blue titanium case with a matching blue dial aesthetic. Moonphase and power reserve complications. Roman numerals. The case is the defining feature: the titanium's blue comes from thermal oxidation, not coating.	Titanium case surface with iridescent blue from thermal treatment Blue is visible as a surface oxide layer with slight iridescence, not a painted or PVD finish Moonphase complication at 6 o'clock Power reserve indicator DB28KOB designation on caseback 43mm titanium case

Service part flags

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Case surface (thermal blue)

Original: The blue titanium surface is a controlled thermal oxide layer. The color varies slightly across the case geometry where heat distribution was uneven; this gradient is characteristic and cannot be produced uniformly by painting or coating. Under any light source, the thermal blue shows a faint iridescence.

Replacement tells

Case blue that appears perfectly uniform with no micro-variation in tone (indicates PVD or painting)
Blue surface without iridescence when tilted under light
Chipped or peeling surface blue (thermal oxide does not chip)
Case surface that shows color variation inconsistent with thermal distribution

Moonphase

Original: The DB28 spherical moonphase is a three-dimensional sphere, as in all De Bethune moonphase references. Authentication is identical to the DB28XP moonphase.

Replacement tells

Flat moonphase disc instead of sphere
Sphere that does not track the lunar cycle correctly

Case back markings

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2014 to present

DB28KOB or DB28 Kind of Blue designation
Individual serial number
Ti material designation
30m water resistance

Movement tells

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The Caliber DB2019 is manual-wind with a 6-day power reserve and titanium balance wheel; all De Bethune silicon escapement authentication applies.
At service, the titanium balance wheel should be confirmed; a steel balance wheel indicates a non-DB2019 caliber.
The thermal blue case surface should be examined under magnification after any service to confirm no damage from case opening tools.

Sources: De Bethune official.