The Lady-Datejust 28 ref. 279174 is the current production 28mm Datejust with a factory diamond bezel, available in full steel or two-tone Rolesor configurations. It runs the caliber 2236, Rolex's first in-house movement purpose-built for smaller-cased watches, with a silicon hairspring that makes it more resistant to magnetic fields and eliminates the need for a Faraday cage. For collectors who want a modern, properly-sized ladies Datejust with genuine mechanical substance rather than a quartz alternative, this reference is the sensible choice.
What it is
The 279174 launched in 2016 as part of the comprehensive Datejust refresh that unified the family under a new case architecture and replaced the older 178274 in the 28mm diamond-bezel slot. The caliber 2236 was introduced specifically for this generation, supplanting the 2235, and brought a silicon Syloxi hairspring for improved antimagnetic performance and long-term rate stability. Dial options have included champagne, silver, pink, and mother-of-pearl, with several iterations across the production run; the reference remains in current production as of 2026.
Rolesor variants pair a yellow or Everose gold bezel and crown with a steel case and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.
Buying notes
Check the diamond bezel closely: factory-set stones should be consistent in appearance and matched; aftermarket diamond bezels are common on the secondary market and reduce value meaningfully, so prefer examples with original Rolex documentation and unbroken factory seal stickers where present. Verify the dial text matches the era, particularly the "Datejust" signature and "Swiss Made" footer, as replacement dials circulate. The Jubilee bracelet on these wears at the center links over time; check for stretch and play in the clasp, and prefer examples where the bracelet has not been sized aggressively.
A full set with card, box, and hangtags commands a significantly higher resale floor than watch-only examples of this reference.
Market read
Steel examples with mother-of-pearl dials and factory diamond bezels hold the strongest secondary market demand in this reference. Rolesor variants in Everose gold trade at a premium over full-steel due to material cost, but the spread is narrower on the used market than retail pricing implies. The 279174 is actively produced, which keeps prices close to the retail grey-market level and limits the upside for buyers hoping for appreciation; full-set condition matters more here than on discontinued references.
Thin-traded: exotic dial variants (meteorite, special orders) are rare enough that pricing is genuinely uncertain when they appear.
Service expectations
The caliber 2236 is the current generation movement and parts availability is not a concern for the foreseeable future. Rolex recommends service every ten years, and a documented Rolex service on a secondary-market example adds real value given the cost, typically $800-1,200 at an authorized service center. The silicon Syloxi hairspring is not user-serviceable and requires factory tooling, so independent servicing carries more risk here than on older calibers.
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