
Entry to the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève is voluntary and made by the brand. An entry is a watch registered for that year's competition, not a jury verdict, and several large houses including Rolex, Patek Philippe and Omega do not take part at all.
The Homme category at GPHG 2023 held 27 entries. These are the other 26.
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Spring Drive is the easiest movement in watchmaking to verify by eye. The seconds hand glides with no steps at all, and nothing with a conventional escapement can imitate that convincingly.
| Area | What to check | What is correct | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| hands | Seconds hand motion | A continuous glide with no perceptible steps anywhere in the sweep | Any stepping, however fine. An 8-beat mechanical still moves in discrete jumps under close watch |
| dial | Dial texture and text | The Lake Suwa pattern is stamped into the dial and catches light differently as the watch tilts. The dial reads "SPRING DRIVE" and "5 DAYS" | A printed or flat pattern, or a dial-side power-reserve arc, which belongs to the 9R65 generation |
| case | Zaratsu polishing | Flat mirror surfaces that reflect without distortion, meeting brushed surfaces along a crisp line | Rippled or wavy reflections in the polished flanks, which is what ordinary buffing looks like |
| movement | Calibre through the display back | 9RA2, 38 jewels, with the power-reserve indication on the movement side | A visible balance wheel oscillating back and forth. Spring Drive uses a glide wheel that spins continuously |
| case | Case dimensions | 40mm across, 11.8mm high, 100m water resistant with a screw-down crown | Dimensions materially away from those, which points at a different Evolution 9 reference |