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The main question on a two-tone Santos is whether the gold is solid or plated, and whether the bracelet belongs to the watch. Both are checkable without opening it.
| Area | What to check | What is correct | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| case | The eight exposed bezel screws | Eight screws set into the gold bezel, evenly seated, with gold tone matching the bracelet centre links | Wear through to a base metal at the screw heads or bezel edges, or a colour mismatch against the bracelet |
| movement | Caliber 077 | A 25-jewel Cartier cal. 077 automatic | A manual-wind or quartz movement in a watch sold as the automatic reference 2961 |
| dial | Roman numerals and the concealed signature | Evenly printed Roman numerals with the Cartier signature worked into one of them, and blued sword hands | Thickened or uneven numerals, a missing concealed signature, or hands in a black finish rather than blued steel |
| caseback | Case number and reference | A case number and a 2961 reference on the caseback, legible and evenly stamped | A different reference, or stamping whose depth and spacing vary across the characters |
| bracelet | Two-tone integrated bracelet | Convex two-tone links integrated into the case with no gap at the join, and a signed deployant clasp | Flat links from the earlier case generation, a gap at the case join, or an unsigned clasp |
| crystal | Sapphire crystal and cabochon crown | A sapphire crystal and a faceted synthetic spinel cabochon set in the crown | A missing or loose cabochon, or a crown from a different Cartier line |
Pre-purchase sheet → The numbers to check, what to look at and what to ask, on one printable page.
