The Classique Moonphase 4396 combines a Breguet overcoil balance spring, 122-year accuracy moonphase, and the signature guilloched dial in a gold case; secondary prices are stable and the reference rewards buyers who appreciate technical finishing.
Editorial estimate, 2026 Q2. Actual prices vary by condition, date, and box/papers status.
Movement tier: unclassified · caliber Breguet Cal. 5165R: in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 60h PR, 22j; moonphase display accurate to 1 day in 122 years; wave-finished bridges · 60h power reserve (2.5 days)
Versatile size: fits most wrists (6–7.5 in / 15–19 cm)
38 mm case. The sweet spot for the broadest range of wrist sizes. Neither too dainty nor too bold.
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Moon disc artwork is hemisphere-specific; verify the disc orientation matches the intended market.
Known issues in the market
Southern hemisphere moon disc installed on a northern hemisphere configuration or vice versa.
Moon disc hand-painting quality varies; inspect under magnification for inconsistent brushwork on non-genuine examples.
Area
What to check
What is correct
Red flag
dial
Moonphase disc orientation
Northern hemisphere: moon face oriented upward on the disc; southern hemisphere: moon face oriented downward; matches market documentation
Moon orientation inconsistent with the documented market configuration for this serial range
dial
Moon disc hand-painting quality
Luminous moon rendering with consistent brushwork; Breguet-specific moon face artwork; stars positioned correctly on disc
Inconsistent brushwork; mass-produced moon face without individual hand-painting characteristics; incorrect star count or arrangement
dial
Guilloché and aperture finish
Moonphase aperture cleanly cut; guilloché continues to aperture edge without interruption; rose gold case matches 4396BR specification
Rough aperture edge; guilloché interruption near aperture; case metal inconsistent with reference specification
Common legitimate replacements
Moon disc replacement requires Breguet-authorized service; incorrect disc orientation is a known service error.
Cal. 5165R peripheral rotor must be confirmed through exhibition caseback as with other Classique automatics.
Expert resources: Breguet 4396 documentation at breguet.com. WatchUSeek Breguet forum for hemisphere disc variant identification. Moonphase accuracy of 1 day per 122 years is a verifiable specification.
Authentication guide
Last reviewed June 2026
The Classique 4396 is a ladies moonphase Classique in rose gold. The moonphase aperture at 6 o'clock is the central complication, and the display quality -- depth of the blue sky enamel and precision of the moon disc painting -- is the complication-specific authentication point alongside the standard guilloché and Breguet hands checks.
Known reproduction risks
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HIGH RISK
Printed moonphase sky without enamel depth
Blue sky appears flat and uniformly colored under any angle of directional light
No apparent translucency or three-dimensional depth in the sky background
MEDIUM
Wrong gold alloy or plated case
Rose gold color inconsistent with known 18k rose gold tone
Missing 750 hallmark on case and caseback
Weight inconsistent with a comparable 18k gold case
Dial variants by era
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Era
Description
Identifiers
All current production
Rose gold case, silvered or champagne guilloché dial, moonphase at 6 o'clock with deep blue enamel sky background and hand-painted or applied moon disc.
Off-center time display in upper dial register
Moonphase aperture at 6 o'clock: deep blue (Grand Feu enamel) sky with textured or painted moon disc
Star-form aperture surround or classic circular aperture depending on production year
Guilloché background: rose-engine hobnail pattern, standard Classique quality
Secret signature at 12 o'clock, visible with loupe at 10x or higher
Blued steel Breguet hands
Rose gold (18k) case with alternating polished and brushed surfaces
Service part flags
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Moonphase display
Original: Blue enamel sky aperture with a disc below it carrying two moon images that rotate to track the lunar cycle. The blue enamel has a deep, three-dimensional quality from the Grand Feu (kiln-fired) enamel process. The moon disc images are precise and consistently positioned relative to the aperture.
Replacement tells
Blue sky that appears painted or printed rather than showing the depth and slight translucency of kiln-fired enamel
Moon disc that is not centered in the aperture at the correct phase
Moon imagery that appears pixelated or lacks the definition of genuine appliqué or miniature enamel painting
Guilloché dial
Original: Standard Classique rose-engine guilloché, same quality benchmark as the 5177 and 5157.
Replacement tells
Flat or printed guilloché
Missing secret signature under loupe inspection
Case back markings
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All production
"BREGUET" and serial number on exhibition caseback rim
Cal. 537/3 or variant engraved on movement plate
18k rose gold hallmarks (750, reference alloy marks)
Reference 4396BR and variant code on caseback
Movement tells
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Moonphase mechanism requires resetting after service -- verify the displayed phase matches the actual current lunar phase after any service
The moonphase disc is a wear item; it should show no scratching under 5x magnification at the aperture edges