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Rolex

Datejust 36 Rolesor (five-digit)

Ref. 16013
1977–1988 · 36mm · caliber Rolex Cal. 3035: in-house automatic, 27j; the first Rolex calendar caliber with a quickset date, set from the crown instead of by winding the hands round
Uncommon

Originality

Originality matters on this reference. An original dial and hands command a significant premium. Service replacements typically trade at a 20-40% discount to original examples.

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In-house manufacture caliber · caliber Rolex Cal. 3035: in-house automatic, 27j; the first Rolex calendar caliber with a quickset date, set from the crown instead of by winding the hands round
Small case: suits slender wrists (under 6.5 in / 16.5 cm)
36 mm case. A compact, elegant wear. Particularly at home on narrower wrists where larger cases can overhang.

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Authentication

The two-tone Datejust is common enough that outright counterfeits are less of a risk than aftermarket parts. Diamond dials, bezels and bracelets fitted outside Rolex are the main thing to identify.

Known issues in the market
  • Aftermarket diamond-set bezels and dials are widespread on this reference and are often described as factory. They change the value considerably.
  • Gold-plated aftermarket parts are sometimes fitted alongside genuine solid gold ones, so the gold on the bezel, crown and bracelet centre links should be checked as a set.
  • Dial refinishing is common on forty-year-old Datejusts and is frequently not disclosed.
AreaWhat to checkWhat is correctRed flag
caseFluted 18k yellow gold bezelA solid gold fluted bezel whose flutes are evenly cut and whose colour matches the crown and the bracelet centre linksWear through to steel at the flute peaks, or a bezel whose gold tone does not match the crown and bracelet
crystalAcrylic crystal with cyclopsAn acrylic crystal, correct for the five-digit generation, with the cyclops magnifying the dateA sapphire crystal, which belongs to the later 16234 rather than to the 16013
movementCaliber 3035 quickset dateA 27-jewel cal. 3035 whose date advances from the crown in an intermediate position rather than by winding the hands roundA date that can only be set by turning the hands past midnight, which points to an earlier non-quickset caliber and a mismatched case
dialDial printing and index settingEven printing with applied indices seated flush, and a dial code consistent with the referenceAftermarket diamond indices, uneven index feet, or printing that has been thickened by refinishing
braceletTwo-tone Jubilee bracelet and claspA Rolex-signed clasp with a code at or after the case date, and gold centre links matching the bezel in toneAn unsigned clasp, a clasp code earlier than the case, or plated centre links wearing through at the edges
caseReference and serial between the lugsA 16013 reference between the lugs at twelve and a serial at six, both legibleA different reference, or numbers worn shallow by polishing
Common legitimate replacements
  • Acrylic crystals are replaced routinely and carry no originality penalty.
  • Jubilee bracelets stretch and are frequently swapped between Datejusts. A stretched bracelet is wear, not a red flag, but the clasp code should still make sense against the case.
Expert resources: Sotheby’s publishes lot text for this reference with caliber, case and bracelet detail. Monochrome’s history of the Datejust sets out what the five-digit generation changed, which is the quickest way to tell a 16013 from the sapphire-crystal 16234 that followed it.

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Buying guidance

Sources for this entry: sothebys.com · sothebys.com · monochrome-watches.com

Pre-purchase sheet → The numbers to check, what to look at and what to ask, on one printable page.

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