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Movement tier: unclassified · caliber Cartier Cal. 1917 MC: manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 38h PR, 19j; thin profile for dress watches · 38h power reserve · family design Louis Cartier
Small case: suits slender wrists (under 6.5 in / 16.5 cm)
25.5 mm case. A compact, elegant wear. Particularly at home on narrower wrists where larger cases can overhang.

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Authentication

Blued sword hands with correct taper and white-lacquered Roman numeral chapter ring authenticate the Tank Louis Cartier

Known issues in the market
  • Dial printing quality on fakes is the most common tell; Roman numerals must be crisp and evenly spaced
  • Sword hands must be properly blued steel, not painted or applied blue color
  • Manual-wind movement should be signed correctly; counterfeit examples sometimes use quartz movements
  • Cartier reference numbers differ across yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold variants; verify metal matches documentation
AreaWhat to checkWhat is correctRed flag
dialRoman numeral chapter ring and dial printingWhite lacquered dial; Roman numerals printed in black with correct font and spacing; "Cartier" at 12 between numerals; Arabic "7" at the 7 position (Cartier tradition); "Paris" on older examples, "Swiss Made" at 6 on modernUneven Roman numeral spacing; missing Arabic "7"; blurry or thin dial printing; yellowed or cracked lacquer on modern examples
handsBlued sword handsBlued steel hands with sword shape tapering to a point; even blue color without paint or coating; minute hand extends to chapter ring; hands lie flat parallel to dialPainted blue rather than heat-blued steel; hands that do not reach chapter ring; uneven color; hands that catch on dial or each other
caseRectangular case proportions and finishingRectangular case with "brancards" (side rails) in yellow or white gold per variant; case proportions consistent with documented LC dimensions (27.4mm x 34.8mm for large); polished finish; sapphire cabochon crownCase proportions inconsistent with documented sizes; mixed finishing (satin where polished is correct); fake or missing sapphire cabochon on crown
movementManual-wind movement signingManual-wind movement, no rotor; "Cartier" or "ETA" base signed per generation; movement visible through display back on modern examples; no self-winding rotorRotor present (indicates wrong movement); quartz battery compartment; unsigned movement
Common legitimate replacements
  • Leather strap is the standard; aftermarket straps on a Cartier deployant clasp are common on secondary examples.
  • Sapphire cabochon crown is a wear point; inspect for chips or replacement with a non-sapphire synthetic.
Expert resources: Cartier authenticates via their service centers with serial lookup. Watchuseek Cartier forum and r/Cartier have detailed photo threads on genuine vs. fake Tank Louis Cartier.

Authentication guide

Last reviewed June 2026

The Tank Louis Cartier in yellow gold is the purest expression of the Tank form. The dial furniture -- Roman numeral proportions, railroad minute track, and blued hands -- is the primary authentication checkpoint. Reproductions consistently fail on the typeface geometry of the Roman numerals.

Known reproduction risks

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HIGH RISK

Roman numeral typeface does not match Cartier's proprietary geometry.

  • The "VII" crossbar on reproductions is typically too narrow or too high on the stem
  • The "IV" on reproductions often has the crossbar positioned incorrectly relative to the stem height
  • Overall numeral weight appears lighter or heavier than Cartier originals when compared side by side

This is the single fastest field tell. If the numerals look wrong, everything else is secondary.

HIGH RISK

Blued hands are painted or lacquered rather than genuinely heat-blued.

  • Painted hands appear uniformly dark blue with no tonal variation under changing light angles
  • Genuine blued steel shifts from blue to violet to grey-blue depending on light angle
  • Painted hands may show brush marks or surface gloss that genuine blued steel does not
MEDIUM

Cabochon crown stone is incorrect material or shape.

  • Flat or near-flat crown stone instead of the characteristic dome profile
  • Stone with no blue translucency, appearing as a solid blue oval
  • Crown tube that shows solder or adhesive around the stone setting

Dial variants by era

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EraDescriptionIdentifiers
2000s to present (current production, white lacquer dial)White lacquer dial with black Roman numerals, blued sword-shaped hands, and a fine railroad minute track at the periphery.
  • Roman numerals in Cartier's proprietary typeface: the VII has a distinctive wide crossbar and the XII stacks cleanly within the upper quarter of the dial field
  • Blued steel sword hands: genuinely blued, not painted, with a visible blue-violet tone that shifts under light rather than appearing uniformly dark
  • Railroad minute track: fine parallel rails with consistent tick spacing at 60 divisions, not printed dots
  • "Cartier" signature at the base of the dial in a specific serif face; the "C" in Cartier is wider than reproductions typically produce
  • Cabochon sapphire crown: rounded, slightly domed, synthetic sapphire in a gold crown tube; not a flat stone
2000s to present (silvered sunburst dial variant)Silvered guilloché or sunburst dial on some configurations within this reference family. Same hand and numeral specification.
  • Dial surface shows directional sunburst pattern from the center when viewed under a single light source at 45 degrees
  • Roman numerals and "Cartier" text print over the guilloché without obscuring the underlying texture
  • Blued hands remain the same profile as the lacquer variant

Service part flags

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Dial (Roman numerals and railroad track)

Original: The lacquer dial is flat with printed Roman numerals at consistent depth. The railroad minute track is composed of fine alternating long and short tick marks that are precisely spaced. Under 5x magnification, the print edges are clean with no ink spread.

Replacement tells
  • Roman numeral "I" strokes that are too thin or too thick relative to the other numerals on the same dial
  • Railroad track ticks that are uneven in spacing or appear fuzzy at the edges under magnification
  • "Cartier" text where the letterforms appear slightly compressed or where the "t" crossbar height differs from originals
  • Any yellowing or crazing in the lacquer surface suggesting a non-original dial
Cabochon sapphire crown

Original: Synthetic blue cabochon set in a fluted yellow gold crown tube. The cabochon is visibly domed and shows slight translucency. On the Tank Louis Cartier, the crown is on the left side of the case at 9 o'clock.

Replacement tells
  • Crown stone that is opaque rather than having the slight blue translucency of a synthetic sapphire cabochon
  • Crown tube that shows tool marks around the setting bezel, indicating aftermarket replacement
  • Stone that is flat or only very slightly raised rather than genuinely domed
Case finishing

Original: Yellow gold case with polished surfaces throughout. The Tank LC case has narrow, parallel side bands ("brancards") that are correctly polished. No brushed surfaces on this reference.

Replacement tells
  • Brancards (side rails) that show rounding or polishing that reduces their sharpness -- original case angles are crisp at the brancards
  • Case back that shows any brushing on a stated polished example
  • Lug ends that are rounded or show evidence of buffing beyond the original profile

Case back markings

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2000s to present
  • Solid yellow gold caseback (no exhibition) with engraved reference number and serial number
  • "CARTIER" engraved around the periphery of the caseback
  • French hallmarks for 18k gold (750 purity stamp with owl cartouche for French market pieces)
  • Water resistance rating (typically 30m) and "Swiss Made" engraving
  • Movement caliber designation where applicable (Cal. 430 MC for the manual-wind versions)

Movement tells

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  • The Tank Louis Cartier uses Cal. 430 MC (manual wind, proprietary movement). No exhibition caseback, so movement condition is assessed during service only.
  • A correctly serviced movement should have no magnetism and winds smoothly with no roughness through the full crown rotation range.
  • Any caseback that has been opened improperly will show tool marks at the back opening groove; the original finishing should be clean.
Sources: Cartier official -- Tank Louis Cartier; WatchUSeek -- Cartier authentication thread; Cartier Passion -- Tank reference archive.

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