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Mechanically and structurally this is the black 210.30.42.20.01.001 in a different colour, so the tells for any current Seamaster Diver 300M apply unchanged. What is specific to this reference is that both the dial and the bezel insert are ceramic, which behaves differently from paint and from aluminium when it is damaged or replaced.
| Area | What to check | What is correct | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| dial | Laser-engraved waves in ceramic | Waves are cut into a polished ceramic surface and catch light at a different angle from the flat areas around them | A printed or transferred wave pattern sitting on top of the dial surface, or waves whose depth is uniform under raking light |
| case | Bezel insert colour through a chip | Ceramic is coloured through its whole thickness, so any chip shows the same green underneath | A different colour or a pale substrate visible at a chipped edge, which indicates a coated insert rather than ceramic |
| movement | Caliber 8800 and Master Chronometer certification | METAS-certified 8800 with a 55-hour reserve; the certificate card carries a number that matches the watch | A missing certificate on a watch presented as full-set, or a reserve well short of 55 hours from full wind |
| crown | Screw-down crown and helium escape valve | Crown threads down cleanly, and the helium valve at 10 is present and operates; the 300m rating depends on both | A crown that will not seat, or a valve that turns without resistance |
Closest by lug-to-lug, thickness and width, which is what decides how a watch sits, rather than by brand or price. Family members are excluded.
Drawn from the 651 of 790 references that have all three measurements recorded. Why the other 139 are missing.
Pre-purchase sheet → The numbers to check, what to look at and what to ask, on one printable page.