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In-house manufacture caliber · caliber Calibre Royal (in-house automatic; 96h power reserve) · 96h power reserve (4 days)
Medium-large: suits wrists 6.5 in+ (16.5 cm+)
39.5 mm case. Wears confidently on average to larger wrists. May overhang on slender builds.

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Authentication

The Calibre Royal power reserve indicator must respond to crown winding; a stationary indicator during winding means a disconnected module.

Known issues in the market
  • The 96h power reserve is the Calibre Royal identity marker; verify actual run time.
  • Power reserve indicator that does not move during winding has a disconnected indicator module.
AreaWhat to checkWhat is correctRed flag
dialPower reserve indicator response to windingIndicator advances toward full during crown winding; recedes during runningStationary indicator during winding; disconnected indicator module
movementCalibre Royal in-house 96h reserveApproximately 96h actual run time; consistent with Calibre RoyalRun time substantially below 96h; worn mainspring or regulation issue
casebackCalibre Royal architectureIn-house Calibre Royal visible through caseback; consistent with Pequignet documentationNon-Calibre-Royal architecture; movement swap
Common legitimate replacements
  • Crown; Pequignet OEM only.
  • Crystal; sapphire standard.
Expert resources: Pequignet authorized service; Morteau manufacturer documentation.

Authentication guide

Last reviewed June 2026

The Royale de Paris 39.5mm is Pequignet's flagship automatic: a French in-house movement with a free-sprung micro-adjustable balance wheel, unusual at this price point. The exhibition caseback shows the proprietary balance cock architecture of Calibre Royal. Pequignet is not widely replicated; condition and service history are the primary pre-purchase concerns.

Known reproduction risks

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LOW

Non-Pequignet movement in Royale de Paris case

  • Balance cock without the Pequignet-specific architecture through caseback
  • Power reserve outside the 96-hour specification
  • Standard regulation balance (with curb pin) rather than free-sprung balance
  • Movement without "PEQUIGNET" or "MORTEAU" designation

Pequignet is not a target for counterfeiting. The primary concern is finding examples in good service condition with consistent movement documentation, particularly when purchasing on the gray market.

Dial variants by era

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EraDescriptionIdentifiers
2025 to present (current generation)Blue, black, or salmon dial with big date, day, moonphase, power reserve, and small seconds complications. The dial is busy by dress watch standards but well-organized in a classical layout.
  • Big date aperture: the date uses two individual discs for tens and units, producing noticeably larger numerals than a standard quickset date
  • Day-of-week display in a separate aperture
  • Moonphase aperture: conventional stylized moon illustration (not the CVDK photographic approach)
  • Power reserve sector indicator on the dial
  • Small seconds sub-dial at 6
  • "PEQUIGNET" at 12 and "ROYALE DE PARIS" below in a restrained typeface
  • "MORTEAU" or "FRANCE" designation consistent with Pequignet's Franche-Comté manufacture origin

Service part flags

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Free-sprung balance

Original: The Calibre Royal uses a free-sprung micro-adjustable balance: the hairspring is not regulation-sprung in the conventional manner but relies on the balance inertia for timing adjustment. The balance cock architecture is distinctive and visible through the exhibition caseback.

Replacement tells
  • Conventional regulation arbor and curb pin on the balance cock -- the free-sprung balance does not use a curb pin; adjustment is via small screws on the balance rim
  • Movement without the distinctive Pequignet balance cock shape visible through caseback
Movement (Calibre Royal)

Original: In-house automatic, 96-hour power reserve. The movement is manufactured in Morteau, Franche-Comté, France. The balance cock architecture is the primary visual identifier for the Calibre Royal through the exhibition caseback.

Replacement tells
  • Power reserve below 80 hours from full wind -- the Calibre Royal is specified at 96 hours
  • Movement without the Pequignet-specific balance cock profile through caseback
  • Any movement without "PEQUIGNET" or "MORTEAU" designation on the movement bridges

Case back markings

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2025 to present
  • Ref. 9100633 (or variant for dial color)
  • "CALIBRE ROYAL" designation
  • "PEQUIGNET" and "MORTEAU" engravings
  • Serial number
  • 30M water resistance
  • Exhibition sapphire caseback

Movement tells

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  • Power reserve is 96 hours. A well-worn Royale de Paris should run approximately 96 hours from full wind. Consistent running below 80 hours indicates mainspring service.
  • The free-sprung balance allows no conventional regulation. Timing adjustment requires accessing the balance rim micro-screws. If the watch runs significantly fast or slow, this must be done by a Pequignet-authorized watchmaker.
  • The big date mechanism uses two separate discs. The date should advance precisely at midnight with both tens and units discs advancing simultaneously. Any delay or misalignment at the big date aperture indicates the dual-disc mechanism needs adjustment.
Sources: Pequignet official: Royale de Paris.

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