Lacquer
The liquid coating that gives dials their deepest colours
What it is
Lacquer dials are made by applying layers of coloured resin; a solution of synthetic or natural resins in solvent; to a metal dial blank, typically brass. Multiple coats build up the correct depth and colour saturation. Lacquer can achieve colours and effects that kiln-fired enamel cannot, including deep blacks, vivid saturated hues, and gradient tones. It is the standard dial finish for the great majority of production watches from entry-level to high-end.
History
Lacquer replaced enamel for most production purposes in the early 20th century as watch demand exceeded enamel atelier capacity. Because lacquer is applied cold; no kiln required; it can be produced at volumes and speeds that enamel cannot match. The fumé dial, a gradient from dark at the centre to lighter at the edges (or the reverse), became the signature of H. Moser & Cie. from its 2012 relaunch under Edouard Meylan; the effect is achieved during the galvanic lacquer deposition process by controlling the density and duration of application across the dial surface. Lacquer is more susceptible to UV fading and humidity damage over decades than enamel, which is why vintage lacquer dials from the 1960s and 1970s develop patina; a colour shift from black toward brown or grey; while enamel dials from the same era remain stable. This aging, particularly on Rolex and Heuer references, has itself become a collector premium.
How it's done
A metallic dial blank is cleaned, degreased, and primed. Lacquer is applied by spraying in a clean-room environment or by galvanic deposition, depending on the finish required. Multiple coats are applied with curing time between applications; the total layer count and thickness are calibrated to the target colour depth and dial type. Gradient (fumé) effects are produced by applying denser lacquer at the centre or edge and controlling how the material flows and thins during the curing process. After the final coat the dial is cured under UV light or heat, then inspected for bubbles, fish-eyes, colour inconsistency, and surface contamination. Applied indices are staked onto the dial surface after lacquering is complete.
In the catalog
Related
- Dial: The face of the watch; its most expressive surface
- Grand feu enamel: Kiln-fired glass-based dial coating at 800°C
- Guilloché: Engine-turned geometric engraving on metal
