17
Ming's founding series, announced in 2017 as photographer and designer Ming Thein's first watch under his own brand. The 17.01 introduced the flared-lug case and layered, luminous-ring-etched dial that carried Ming from a small Kuala Lumpur collective into a name the independent-watch trade tracks closely; later 17-series references added GMT and moonphase complications on the same architecture.
References in this family
Which ref to buy
The MING 17 series is where the brand defined its identity: compact 38-39mm cases with exceptional dial finishing, Sellita or ETA base movements, and a price-to-finishing ratio that embarrasses watches costing three times as much. Limited production means supply is the constraint, not desirability.
- 1Open
17.01: the watch that established MING, three-hand, no date, lacquered dial with applied indices in a 38mm package.
- The case for it:
- The 17.01 is the founding reference and the purest expression of what MING does. Secondary market examples have appreciated; early production runs with specific dial colors carry meaningful premiums. The simplicity is the point.
- Consider instead if:
- The 17.09 is more technically interesting with its moonphase complication executed at MING's finishing standard. If you can only own one MING, the 17.01 is the correct starting point, but the 17.09 is the more remarkable watchmaking achievement.
- 2Open
17.09: moonphase display executed at MING's finishing level, which means better-looking than moonphases costing significantly more.
- The case for it:
- The 17.09 moonphase disc is one of the better-executed examples at any price point. MING's approach to the complication treats it seriously rather than decoratively. For a collector who wants a moonphase that is also genuinely well-made, this is the best value in the category.
- Consider instead if:
- The 17.01 is historically more important to the brand. The moonphase adds emotional value but the movement base is still a SW300 derivative; buyers paying moonphase premiums in the $5k-$10k range may find the IWC Portugieser or Patek 5396 more compelling.
- 3OpenMing 17.06 · 17.06Consider
17.06 GMT: dual time zone in the MING format, correctly implemented with an independent 24-hour hand on an SW330 base.
- The case for it:
- If you travel and want the MING aesthetic in a functional complication, the 17.06 is the correct choice. The GMT implementation is clean and the reading is intuitive.
- Consider instead if:
- GMT complications at this price point are well-covered by Rolex, Tudor, and Longines with stronger secondary markets. The 17.06 is the right choice if the MING aesthetic is the priority, not if the GMT function is the priority.
Rankings last reviewed 2026-06-18. Editorial perspective only. Not financial advice.