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Under the Radar
The watch press covers the same twenty references year after year. These do not make those lists. Hamilton, Longines, Nomos, Certina, Orient, Mühle Glashütte, and Fortis build watches with movements and finishing that cost three times as much behind a different name. The market has not caught up. Buy accordingly.
None of these are budget watches dressed up as bargains. Each one has a genuinely well-executed movement and a design that holds up against pieces costing multiples more. The only thing missing is the story that justifies the premium.
38mmHamilton Cal. H-50: ETA 2801-2 base, manual-wind, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 17j; used in Khaki Field Mechanical; Hamilton-modified for increased power reserve2018–present
38mmHamilton Cal. H-10: ETA C07.611 base, 28,800bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Khaki Field, Navy Scuba, Jazzmaster; excellent value 80-hour automatic2018–present
41mmLongines Cal. L888.4: ETA A31.L01 base with silicon hairspring, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Conquest Classic and Flagship Dress; silicon anti-shock and anti-magnetic2020–present
40mmLongines Cal. L888.4: ETA A31.L01 base with silicon hairspring, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Spirit 40 and Hydroconquest Modern; excellent value automatic2020–present
42mmSellita SW200-1: Swiss automatic, ETA 2824-2 functional equivalent, 28,800bph, 38-41h PR (38 min, 41 typical), 26j; used across many mid-range and tool watch brands2002–present
